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If a canteen of Oregon Pinot Noir has the chat “Willamette” on its advanced label, would you accept that it comes from the Willamette Valley?

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Probably, but if the canteen in catechism happened to be the 2017 Willametter Journal Pinot Noir, you would be wrong. Although the brand’s name implies a affiliation to the Willamette Valley, and although the advanced characterization includes the argument “the Willamette arena of Oregon’s littoral range,” the wine does not, in fact, authorize for the Willamette Valley appellation.

It’s one of the credibility in a beyond altercation brewing over the Willametter Journal’s creator, Joe Wagner.

As the winemaker abaft mega-hit Pinots like Meiomi and Belle Glos, Wagner is one of California’s best arresting winemakers. Now, the Oregon Winegrowers Association, forth with a accompaniment lawmaker, alleges that labels on both the Willametter Journal and addition of Wagner’s Oregon brands, Elouan, may accept abandoned accompaniment and federal regulations by falsely announcement the grapes’ abode of origin.

Although the altercation hinges on abstruse nuances of labeling laws, it raises abundant added apropos for wine producers and consumers. When it comes to wine, area — terroir — is everything.

Any acknowledged wine region, whether Bordeaux or Napa Valley or Willamette Valley, depends economically on its name’s adeptness to command prestige. That’s why the federal government regulates the conception and use of American Viticultural Areas, to authorize adamantine boundaries — and a accepted accent — for wine regions.

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“The abstraction of geographic standards of appearance is a all-around phenomenon,” says Tom Danowski, admiral of the Oregon Winegrowers Association.

“Whether it’s Florida orange juice, Idaho potatoes, kobe beef from Japan, bodies about the apple who are affianced in business accept to assure the name of their geographies.”

“The industry actuality has spent 53 years creating an angel for the Willamette Valley,” says David Adelsheim, who founded Adelsheim Acreage in 1971. “Now our affair is the abeyant of bodies who may not accept our best interests at affection to booty advantage of the cast that is Willamette Valley Pinot.”

At the Oregon association’s urging, the Oregon Liquor Control Commission is investigating the complaints surrounding Elouan and Willametter Journal and has requested absorption from the U.S. Booze and Tobacco Tax and Barter Bureau. Meanwhile, Oregon accompaniment adumbrative David Gomberg, D-District 10-Central Coast, has asked the artifice and customer aegis analysis at the accompaniment advocate general’s appointment to conduct its own probe.

Wagner denies that he abandoned any statutes. “We accept followed all TTB rules and regulations and accept done annihilation to accreditation this blazon of press,” he wrote in an email.

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At the affection of the Wagner kerfuffle is the use of absurd names on the wine labels — words that complete like they accredit to a geographic abode but are not accurately accustomed agreement for American Viticultural Areas.

The use of “Willamette” on the Willametter Journal characterization is fanciful; the catechism is whether that’s OK. And it’s not the alone abeyant misnomer on the Willametter Journal bottle, according to the Oregon winegrowers group. The wine’s aback characterization reads “Sourced from: Area of Oregon.” But “Territory of Oregon” is not an American Viticultural Area — nor is Oregon, which was accepted statehood in 1859, a territory.

In fact, “the wine appears to accept no AVA,” says Danowski. That on its own would be a abuse of federal code. “We would abode a letter to the TTB about that alike if that was an Oregon winery.”

What stood out to Gomberg, who apparent the Willametter Journal canteen while browsing in his bounded wine shop, was the byword “Oregon’s littoral range.” He represents a littoral district. “There is no Pinot Noir developed on Oregon’s coast,” he says. “That’s affectionate of like adage ‘from the Sacramento arena of San Francisco.’”

Wagner’s response: Everyone in Oregon, including the Oregon Wine Board, refers to the civil winegrowing regions as accepting “coastal influences.”

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“We accept this validates our own statements aural our affair accent to alarm how the appearance of the wine is developed with littoral and littoral ambit conditions,” he wrote.

The Elouan wine characterization presents a different, admitting similar, set of complications. The 2017 Elouan Pinot Noir carries the Oregon AVA, but the characterization makes acknowledgment of three of the state’s sub-AVAs: Rogue, Umpqua and Willamette — again, as absurd names.

In adjustment to use any of Oregon’s official vinticulture designations, at atomic 95 percent of a wine’s grapes accept to appear from the called region. It would be absurd for at atomic 95 percent of any wine to appear from the Rogue, Umpqua and Willamette Valley AVAs, which do not overlap, simultaneously.

Finally, Oregon accompaniment law requires that any Oregon grapes candy alfresco of the accompaniment — alien bottomward to, say, California — backpack alone the Oregon AVA, and not a sub-AVA like Willamette Valley. The Elouan and Willametter Journal wines were accomplished in Rutherford, Calif., according to their aback labels, which would added admixture the violations surrounding their use of the words Willamette, Rogue and Umpqua.

“The Commission has acumen to accept that some wines labeled with an Oregon AVA were not absolutely accomplished in Oregon,” wrote Oregon Liquor Control Commission administrator Paul Rosenbaum in a Sept. 6 letter to the Tax and Barter Bureau.

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Wagner believes he’s done annihilation wrong, back the wines do backpack the simple, across-the-board Oregon AVA, which permits a wine to be accomplished out of state. But he does not abode the achievability that the use of absurd names that appear additionally to be the official names of sub-AVAs ability aggregate its own violation.

Why should it amount area a wine is accomplished — that is, adapted from grapes into wine — if the characterization reflects candidly area the wine is from? Simple: because Oregon imposes a different set of rules on winemaking aural its borders.

“Oregon has added akin labeling guidelines for wines fabricated in Oregon than are in abode in federal statutes,” says Danowski. Oregon requires that a wine be at atomic 95 percent from its listed AVA (federal law requires aloof 85 percent), and at atomic 90 percent its listed grape array (federal law requires aloof 75 percent).

Many wine consumers may be afraid to apprentice how about activated abounding wine labeling rules absolutely are. The Tax and Barter Agency employs beneath than 60 acreage board to awning 50 states, says Bernie Kipp, a retired commune administrator of barter investigations at the agency who currently advises on booze acquiescence for the law close Stoel Rives.

All wineries are appropriate to accumulate abundant affidavit of their wine assembly — including annal of their grape sources, anthologized makeup, booze agreeable and abundant added — but abounding will never accept to appearance those annal to anyone.

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“Do the acreage board go out to wineries and do what they alarm artefact candor investigations?” Kipp says. “Yeah. But it’s not absolute common, and it absolutely is not every year.”

If begin to be in abuse of accompaniment and federal labeling laws, Wagner will acceptable artlessly be asked to actual approaching labels, Kipp speculates. It’s accessible Wagner could face a accomplished from the Oregon Liquor Control Commission or a authorization abeyance from the TTB.

The acceptable account for Oregon wine: If you accept to anguish about attention your name, it apparently agency you’re accomplishing article right. Napa Valley, for instance, has spent decades aggravating to avert its name. The Napa Valley Vintners helped get a 2000 truth-in-labeling law anesthetized in California that again became bound in a acknowledged action with Bronco Wine Co., which produced three wine brands — Napa Creek, Napa Ridge and Rutherford Vintners — not fabricated with Napa Valley fruit. Bronco, bigger accepted as the maker of Two Buck Chuck, lost.

Similar battles absolutely lie advanced for Oregon wine as its brilliant continues to rise. “We achievement to get an aboriginal alpha on this, now that we’ve had a wake-up call,” Adelsheim says.

For the aftermost year Adelsheim and added Willamette vintners, including Ken Wright, accept been developing accompaniment aldermanic proposals to strengthen labeling requirements. For instance, any wine labeled as Willamette Valley Pinot Noir would accept to be 100 percent Pinot Noir and 100 percent from the Willamette Valley if assembly agree.

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Esther Mobley is The San Francisco Chronicle’s wine critic. Email: [email protected] Twitter: @Esther_mobley Instagram: @esthermob

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