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IT ARRIVED VIA FEDEX IN A BOX MARKED “PERISHABLE.” Inside, arranged in Styrofoam and dry ice, I activate a one-gallon artificial jug. There was no characterization or price, no cast name or cessation date — aloof a four-letter chat cacographic in atramentous brand beyond the side: Milk.

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The milk itself amount $6, appreciably added than the $3.39 I pay at the grocery. There was an added allegation of $2.50 for gel packs to authority the jug in place. Plus $9 for the Styrofoam cooler. Plus $10 for the dry ice. Add in shipping, and the absolute came to $45.24. For one gallon of milk.

But this wasn’t aloof any milk. This was raw, straight-from-the-cow, the absolute stuff. It hadn’t been pasteurized, genized or contrarily altered. In Maryland, area I live, as in best added states, you can’t airing into a abundance and buy raw milk. That’s because, while control of raw milk is legal, affairs it is a crime. It’s additionally a abuse of federal law to carriage raw milk beyond accompaniment curve with the absorbed to advertise it for animal consumption. The Tennessee dairy that awash it to me offers raw milk as pet food. The dairy’s Web armpit warns that “due to cogent acknowledged and accountability issues, we cannot and will not acknowledgment questions apropos animal burning of these or any added raw milk articles — amuse don’t ask.”

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Amuse don’t ask, and we won’t tell. Wink, wink.

The affair of affairs raw milk is, accurately speaking, dicey. To actuate absolutely how dicey, I alarm Ted Elkin, agent administrator of the Office of Aliment Protection and Consumer Health Services at the Maryland Department of Health and Mental Hygiene. Elkin is in allegation of authoritative abiding the state’s dairy laws are enforced.

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“So,” I activate carefully, “Maryland’s position on raw milk is . . .?”

“Raw milk is actionable for sale,” Elkin says. “Period.”

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“Huh,” I reply.

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To advice drive this point home, he compares affairs raw milk to affairs pot.

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“Interesting,” I say. At that moment, I am continuing in my kitchen with the fridge aperture open, staring at my gallon of accessible contraband.

“Our position is that it’s bad,” Elkin says. “But we’re not aggravating to be the Gestapo about this. I don’t accept the assets to go afterwards individuals.” This all fabricated me a little nervous.

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Using an analogy, Elkin explains that a bush heroin banker in Baltimore ability be able to baffle the authorities for absolutely a while. So, during our conversation, raw milk was compared to marijuana and heroin. What’s more, Hitler’s abstruse badge were mentioned — in passing, sure, but still.

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