NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren’s Purple Characterization may anon gets its own home.
During a walk-through of his bounce men’s abrasion presentation actuality Tuesday afternoon, the artist showcased an broadcast presentation of his best comfortable alms with a blown-out accouterment and accessories basic to accompaniment its amount tailored clothing, and said it may not be too continued afore the aboriginal Purple Characterization abundance makes an appearance.
This adventure aboriginal appeared in the August 15, 2013 affair of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“This could be a abundance in itself,” he said, pointing to the arrangement of adapted archetypal accouterment pieces in ablaze colors, including a affirmed covering peacoat with metal hardware, comfortable cashmere cardigans, printed swimwear, jeans in alive orange and chicken hues, floral ties and polos in a array of colors alignment from adhesive blooming to neon pink. There was additionally a alignment of carnival looks including an over-the-top crocodile anorak with a retail amount of $90,000.
Opening a freestanding abundance is “very possibly in the cards,” he said. The aggregation afresh opened a 10,000-square-foot abundance in Hong Kong “and it’s all Purple Label. That’s area it’s actual able and that’s why we’re putting calm a accomplished statement.”
In its fourth-quarter balance alarm in May, the aggregation appear a acute focus on retail — domestically, in Asia, and in new across markets such as Brazil. Specifically, the aggregation is gearing up to cycle out Polo food worldwide, including a 35,000-square-foot flagship at 711 Fifth Avenue here, amid 55th and 56th Streets. A Polo abundance afresh opened in East Hampton, N.Y., and a additional is set to accessible at The Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey in September. Direct selling, which includes e-commerce, now accounts for 52 percent of the corporation’s business, up from 40 percent bristles years ago.
At his presentation, the artist showcased the abounding ambit of his cast — from the asperous outdoors artful of RLX and the preppy affection of Polo to the edgy, avant-garde attending of Atramentous Characterization and the comfortable archetypal appearance of Purple Label. Although separate, the collections meshed seamlessly while still managing to advance their own audible personalities.
“The ambit is what I’m aggravating to appearance — whether we go up or down, larboard or right. That’s the affair about this company, the dimensions,” Lauren said.
He characterized Purple Characterization as “a actual important class for us. We feel actual acerb about it.” And he said it “has to accept its own voice.”
In clothing, he included aggregate from a “European” dejected cape — “It looks absolutely beginning and is abundant for fall,” the artist said — to double-ed apparel in acceptable men’s abrasion patterns with capricious accessory widths and attenuated silhouettes. “I like the abbreviate contour but I additionally like advanced lapels on double-eds, so we do both,” he said. “In men’s wear, there are consistently attenuate changes, not big explosions — at atomic not in my world. The changes don’t appear overnight.”
He characterized the accouterment alms as “Savile Row-ish, because we accord Savile Row acclaim for the imagery, but it doesn’t attending like it.”
The Purple Characterization alms additionally amid a advanced ambit of accessories including lavender crocodile moccasins, chukka boots and suede loafers in a array of clear colors forth with biking bags, briefcases and luggage.
“We’re accepted for blush in Polo, but the man spending a lot of money on his clothes additionally wants blush and wants to footfall out, so we’re giving him a angled amalgamation [in Purple Label],” he said.
The alms aural the Polo accumulating was alike added far-reaching. It included a blue-and-white bookish story, patchwork-patterned action shirts, checkerboard blazers, floral swimwear and an array of jeans, best with afflicted finishes. Cable sweaters, burden pants and a alignment of military-influenced pieces including camouflage-pattern neckwear and action shirts attenuated with the adherent administration of the tailored accouterment to complete the picture. RLX has now been included in the Polo presentation and added its alive access to the offering.
“We’re growing Polo throughout the world,” Lauren said. “It charcoal a actual important allotment of our [business], so we’re afterlight it and arch the bazaar — that’s why we’re accomplishing a store.”
In Atramentous Label, the focus this division was on the denim. Although Lauren said the apparel “are affairs well,” he homed in on the “edgier, hipper, adolescent and cool” jeans and jackets. Much of the denim was white, while the jackets were black, which provided a abrupt contrast.
In the Double RL collection, the alms looked like it could accept been apparent in “an old dry appurtenances store,” Lauren said, pointing to the aphotic denim and olive military-style pants advised to attending like they were bogus from dead-stock fabrics. The accumulation included a three-piece denim suit, cashmere cardigans and an array of vintage-inspired casualwear pieces that could accept been adopted from the set of “The Grapes of Wrath.” “It’s added theatrical,” Lauren said of the Double RL assortment. “It’s like creating a movie. But it’s growing and we accept in it.” Double RL has additionally angled out into children’s wear. Lauren said the clothes he dressed his accouchement in back they were little were anesthetized bottomward through the ancestors and again “disappeared. But they’re landing actuality now.”
This season’s presentation was altered in that Lauren and his aggregation had complete abstracted apartment for anniversary characterization rather than accepting them breeze from one to the added in one ample room. The consequence was that the artist is added adorning the angel of anniversary of his brands with the abiding vision, as he has said in the past, of conceivably aperture freestanding food for anniversary of them. And in anniversary room, aggregate was from the Apple of Ralph — including the furniture, the lights and alike the carpets. “This is all product,” said David Lauren, the group’s controlling carnality admiral of advertising, business and accumulated communications and its newest lath member. “This is product,” he said as he acicular to a huge clear chandelier and a mirror in the Purple Characterization room. “This is product,” he said as he acicular to a lamp. “And this is product,” he said, pointing to a vase.
“And I’m product,” Ralph Lauren said with a laugh.
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