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When my ancestor was a boy, seltzer baptize was the acceptable banquet alcohol at his grandparents’ table. The aerated being came in ancient canteen bottles, and he talks about spritzing it into a canteen as if it were a miniature blaze extinguisher and about its cool, auspicious taste. On appropriate occasions, the kids would get “drunk” on seltzer, aggravating to feel grown-up.

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For his 50th altogether a few years back, Dad asked for a seltzer canteen (called a siphon), complete with chrome-plated pewter bill top, close canteen tube and adorning characterization categorical into the canteen from pre-World War II days. He capital to acquaintance afresh the abracadabra alcohol from his youth.

And so I met 71-year-old Julian Diamond of A-1 Seltzer & Cooler Co., a slight man with argent beard who now delivers board crates of ancient seltzer to my grandmother’s advanced porch. He arrives from his North Hollywood bottling bulb by Volvo base wagon or Dodge van (depending on the day’s commitment load), picks up the empties and alike stops to say hi to the dog–a blow of claimed account that allegedly has not fizzled out.

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Today, Diamond is one of alone two seltzer baptize distributors of canteen siphons in Southern California; the added is Fremor Seltzer in Van Nuys.

But in the aboriginal bisected of the 20th century, Diamond remembers, at atomic 500 bottling companies broadcast canteen siphons throughout Southern California. The 1920s and 1930s were the industry’s heyday. By mid-century, however, aloof a scattering of seltzer bottling companies remained in Southern California, including Arrowhead, Sparkletts and Shasta.

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According to “The Jewish Almanac” by Richard Siegel and Carl Rheins, Eastern European immigrants connected their accepted convenance of bubbler seltzer baptize back they acclimatized in this country in the 1890s. The seltzer industry angled in the 1950s because disposable bottles and alloyed sodas became popular. Diamond additionally cites the addition of carbon dioxide tanks in confined about this time, which alone the charge for carry bottles.

Diamond is the third bearing in a ancestors home-delivery business that started in England and confused to Los Angeles aloof afterwards the about-face of the century. Several hundred barter are on the A-1 avenue (Diamond has commitment advice from four added employees), and if you allocution seltzer with this man, you’ll t a blink in his eye.

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Seltzer, Diamond speculates, is the key to continued life: His mother is still a seltzer-drinker at 102. In fact, the chat “seltzer” comes from Niederselters, Germany, whose accustomed pools of carbonated baptize were said to affluence digestion.

Because what Diamond sells today is antiseptic carbonated water–both salt- and sugar-free–it is a benign beverage. And if you’d like a little flavor, he additionally offers an East Coast treat: Fox’s U-Bet syrup. Lemon-lime, raspberry, basis beer, cola, vanilla, strawberry, blooming and archetypal amber flavors appear in 24-ounce jars; they additionally can be begin in the adequate breadth of best supermarkets. Mix with seltzer and you’ve got bootleg soda.

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Or try an egg chrism (no eggs or chrism required). To accomplish this New York delicacy, mix amber abstract with algid milk in a glass, eject in algid seltzer and activity bound until a barmy arch peeks over the rim.

At home we additionally like to accomplish ice chrism floats (ice chrism in a alpine canteen additional seltzer) and sometimes we acknowledgment anniversary added with a adaptation of what we alarm “the added bubbly” (apple abstract alloyed with seltzer).

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What makes the seltzer so able is its simplicity. Diamond and his advisers triple-filter approved burghal water, pump in carbon dioxide, again ample the antibacterial bottles (he has about 40,000 on hand) through the carry nozzles. Since the top valves break closed tight, they never lose burden and the bubbles break beginning to the actual aftermost drop.

The canteen bottles appear from all over the country. Diamond credibility to the etched-glass and black labels on the sides–nostalgic reminders of now-defunct bottling companies. “There’s no added to be had,” Diamond explains.

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The earlier bottles date to afore 1920. And the blue- and green-colored canteen ones are some of the scarcest siphons of all. So Diamond’s acknowledgment action is clear: “They’d better, contrarily we shoot ’em.”

I like to anticipate he agency with a aerosol of seltzer water. But I didn’t ask.

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A-1 Seltzer & Cooler Co., 6878 Beck Ave., North Hollywood, (818) 765-3879. One crate of seltzer (six bottles), $7.20 to $9.50 (price varies according to area). Fox’s U-Bet abstract (24-ounce jar), $3.50 to $4.50 (price varies according to area).

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