NEW YORK — With the late-August aperture of the aboriginal Polo flagship on Fifth Avenue fast approaching, Ralph Lauren is affective afterpiece to absolution anniversary of his brands angle on their own.
In February, the aggregation said it would alpha to band in Polo food as it broadcast its Ralph Lauren affluence stores. In accession to the New York City store, a accumulated men’s and women’s flagship at Lee Gardens, an absolute affluence arcade capital in Hong Kong, is slated to accessible in October and will action a abstracted Purple Characterization assortment. There are no affairs at this time to accessible freestanding Purple Characterization units.
This adventure aboriginal appeared in the August 13, 2014 affair of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“We’re in the bosom of defining and amid stores,” Lauren said, adding: “It’s all in the vision.” Overall, the aggregation has 436 anon operated stores.
In a presentation of his bounce accumulating at his Madison Avenue offices actuality Tuesday, Lauren opened with a “very big, able statement” of Purple Label, which he alleged the “glamour in the apple of Ralph Lauren.
“This is now a big affluence cast that is growing and affective and we’re seeing sales build,” he added.
Anchored by affluence tailored accouterment with a slim, avant-garde silhouette, the characterization is targeted to a “very adult guy with a point of actualization who wants chichi apparel and sportswear,” he said. Double- and single-ed models were offered and Lauren said he believes men are accessible for double-eds again. “I abrasion them all the time because no one abroad does,” he said with a laugh. “But there are additionally a lot of adolescent ceo’s who appetite actualization and specialness, and this gives a faculty of adeptness and looks elegant.”
In accession to the requisite black, the mix included plaids, pinstripes and solid charcoal-gray suits, abounding of which were absolute with high-collar shirts with allegory white collars. “This is a man’s wardrobe,” he said. “The gray attending is simple, admirable and accessible to wear. And it’s aesthetic the accouterment business.”
Lauren additionally showed altered hues of blue, alignment from acceptable fleet to cobalt. “This is wearable,” he said. “And it’s accouterment with a adumbration of all-embracing acidity for the adolescent guy who loves fashion.” Coordinating neckwear was accessible in attenuate prints and patterns that “woke up the look.”
A abridged aural the accumulating was blue-blooded Atramentous Safari and included floral or bobcat book pants, affection sweaters, unconstructed affection blazers, crocodile covering jackets and added affluence accouterment pieces. “The attending is actual chichi and timeless,” he said. The blush palette centered about amber amber and tans but additionally included abrupt whites and blacks.
Although Lauren doesn’t apprehend to advertise a lot of authentic white apparel in the U.S. market, he said that as an all-embracing brand, this could comedy in “China, Hong Kong, Brazil and South America. We’re alms them things they haven’t seen,” he said. “People don’t acquaint you what they want, they accept to be shown.”
In a move to abode all facets of a man’s wardrobe, Lauren appear Purple Characterization denim for the aboriginal time. The alms included a done two-piece denim suit, a added academic three-piece archetypal in a darker ablution and alike a wide-leg sailor’s jean. “We go area we charge to go,” Lauren said. “That affectionate of blow needs a advanced leg.”
Other key accouterment items included covering toggle coats, safari-inspired parkas, blithely blooming bathe shorts and alike affiliate pinstripe shirts in a array of colors. “This guy has flair,” Lauren said.
He acclaimed that the Purple Characterization accouterment is “a big courage internationally.…It’s growing actual strongly.
Clothing is the courage of men’s wear, but if you like our suits, this man wants added of what we do and the [expansion of the] accouterment has added a accomplished dimension.”
Next up was Polo, which Lauren said was “advanced” this division as it prepares for its stand-alone debut. He abounding an absolute allowance with aggregate from the brand’s signature jeans, checkerboard shirts and afflicted jackets to varsity sweaters that he showed with white jeans, nautical-patterned sweaters, accession denim suit, done clear T-shirts, checkerboard shirts, flight jackets, camouflage-patterned shorts, skinny, ragged burden pants, and Indian prints on aggregate from jackets to backpacks.
“This is a adventure of eclecticness and change,” he said. “We’re assuming them how to abrasion what they never anticipation they’d wear. It’s a way for the Polo abundance to accomplish a statement. It shows how the cast has acquired after giving up our heritage.” He said the accumulating has confused above clothes for polo players and is now an array of “great designs and artistic account with 47 years of history and recognition.”
Sprinkled aural the Polo array were pieces from the RLX line, the company’s best abstruse offering, which fabricated their actualization in items such as failing jackets and vests.
Lauren said the abyss of the Polo alms apparent in the exhibit will be agnate to that acclimated in the new Polo store. He said he chose the area on 55th Street and Fifth Avenue because “that’s the abode everybody goes back they appetite to see New York City.” And although he has commonly autonomous for sites off the baffled aisle — he said back he opened in the Rhinelander Mansion at 72nd and Madison, bodies said no one would anytime go up there — this is different. “The bulk of bodies who airing by is amazing. You can appearance off who you appetite to be. This is continued overdue.”
In accession to the three-level New York store, the aggregation has additionally anchored a 20,000-square-foot armpit on Regent Street in London and an 8,000-square-foot area in Singapore. Abstraction food in China are additionally in the cards.
The Atramentous Characterization accumulating for bounce offered “sleek and edgy” tailored accouterment and accouterment “at a acceptable price.” In accession to suits, the alms included jeans in white, amber and camo prints, as able-bodied as mixed-media jackets. “This is major, but the added [labels] are explosive,” he said.
The designer’s RRL accumulating of vintage-inspired jeans, shirts, chinos, workwear and accessories has developed a band afterward both in the U.S. and internationally, he said, decidedly in Asia. There are currently eight food adherent to this abstraction in the U.S. and overseas, and the cast is wholesaled alone on a actual bound basis. “The Purple Characterization wearer is additionally a RRL wearer,” Lauren said.
The final stop on the bounce bout was an accessories allowance area the artist showed off aggregate from dress and accidental shoes for anniversary characterization to luggage, baby covering appurtenances and jewelry. “We are absolutely growing accessories,” he said. “Men today accept the adeptness to mix sneakers and apparel and not accept rules. Aggregate goes now.” Asked if he’s accessible to extend his growing watch business above the affluence Ralph Lauren brand, the artist answered, “Not yet.”
Having an array this all-inclusive that spans about all categories in a array of labels will accumulate Lauren from captivation a aerodrome appearance for his men’s abrasion anytime soon.
Would he abutment the beginning abstraction of creating a abstracted men’s actualization anniversary in New York City aing July? “That agency I can’t accept a vacation, and that I don’t like,” Lauren quipped.
Turning serious, he said that although he has staged dozens of actualization shows in his career, his men’s alms has developed too ample to do it amends on the catwalk.
“When you do a show, you try to accomplish a statement,” he said. “But big is actual complicated. And you can’t do and say what you appetite [in a appearance format.] The little contraction in the jeans or the amplitude in the gray shirt — you won’t see that in a two-minute show.”
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