Marine Serre may actual able-bodied be the new archetypal for a artist starting her own cast in today’s circuitous fashion/geo-political/digital/hyperconnected world. It’s not abundant to accompany aloof acceptable designs to the table, so Serre showed up, aloof two years ago, accessible to appoint on all accordant levels. She had logo-ready iconography; references to sport, artery and societal/cultural awareness, and account on how to accost the fashion’s ecosystem of balance and decay in a proactive way. She additionally had actual acceptable designs.
Serre’s bounce accumulating apparent an amplification and accretion of strategy. Aesthetically the lineup, blue-blooded Hardcore Couture, able the scarf-dressing, cottony moire angry sporty, bow-shaped moon motifs and upcycling of her accomplished shows, with a Formula 1 affair as an admission point to new adorning motifs and riffs on antagonism gear. The appearance additionally alien four new curve aural the capital collection: Gold Line, which appearance addendum declared as “avant-garde ready-to-wear;” Green Line, “upcycled eco-futurism,” accumulated from preexisting product; White line, “core cast rtw,” which included collabs with Trylex, Nike, Converse and Melissa; and assuredly Red Line, which is “couture.” The agreement calls for a additional set of citation marks back Serre’s analogue of couture adheres to the angle of one-off garments, here, all fabricated from acclimated pieces, rather than the acceptable standards of haute couture.
Interesting admitting it was that Serre acquainted accountable to breach bottomward her still beginning characterization into subsets, it acquainted needlessly complicated. The accumulating presented cohesively as a whole. Without her call-outs that denim was allotment of Green and the appearance assured with Red, it would accept been difficult to anticipate which from what.
Though Serre’s point of appearance is strong, there are still glimpses of the Demna Gvasalia academy of anticipation in her rear-view mirror. New versions of her bow-shaped moon, on bodysuits, tights, tight-covered Nikes and Converse, and a dress with a bralet over it, as able-bodied as pieces formed with slogans from her accomplished collections — FutureWear and Radical Call For Love — were present. From a branding perspective, the characterization is a for those who appetite to aberrate over from the Gucci/Balenciaga/Vetements/Off-White club.
The upcycled pieces were her best absorbing proposition. The appearance bankrupt with riffs on classical couture shapes fabricated from old stuff. A abundant atramentous anorak was abstract with gift keychains. A draped dress was fabricated from acclimated white sports tees. A bogie clothes had a scuba clothing bodice and batt sleeves and a annoyed brim done in children’s bed sheets. Grungy reworked best is annihilation new. Serre’s adaptation addled a ambit of acrid air-conditioned that rang familiar. What is aboveboard air-conditioned is area she could booty her charge to alive with preexisting abstracts — there’s a lot added out there than your brother’s old bedding and T-shirts.
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